TUGAS SOFTSKILL BAHASA
INGGRIS 2
NAME : YELPI PERTIWI
CLASS : 1EA26
NPM : 17215230
LECTURER :
NONI MARLIANINGSIH
MATERI AL : INDONESIAN’S PRODUCT ( KAIN
SONGKET )
Songket cultural history
of Palembang, Indonesia
1. History and Development of Kain Songket
Kilkenny has a long history, starting from the Srivijaya kingdom until the glory of the Sultanate of Palembang Darussalam. Sriwijaya kingdom in its heyday around the 7th century AD became the forerunners of the city lies on the banks of Musi river this. A lot of priceless relics from the famous royal, one of which is cultural Wastra (cloth), a beautiful, songket. The existence of songket showed a high level of culture, because the fabric is stored a variety of things such as materials used, workmanship manner, the meaning contained in it as well as how to use and levels of people who wear them.
The existence of Palembang songket is one of the Srivijaya royal heritage evidence capable penguasai trade in the Straits of Malacca in his day. Historians say that the kingdom of Srivijaya around XI century after the collapse of the Malay kingdom holds the hegemony of the sea trade with foreign countries, among countries that have trade relations with the kingdom of Srivijaya is Indian, Chinese, Arabic etc.. The existence of this trade hegemony shows a greatness of the maritime kingdom in the archipelago at the time. Geographical situation in the traffic between China and India trade Goliath make a royal kingdom of Srivijaya maritime and international trade.
Sparkling gold color and luster that glows in this fabric, provides its own value and shows a greatness of the people who make songket. If we see a series of yarn and woven neatly arranged through symmetrical patterns, showed that the fabric was made with the people skills who understand the various ways to create quality fabric, that is able to decorate cloth with various designs. This capability is not everyone can do it, the skill and accuracy are absolutely necessary to make a songket. This knowledge is usually obtained by heredity from generation to generation.
According to some historians, as quoted by the Supreme S from Bandung ITT Research Team in his book entitled "Knowledge Printed Textiles" (1977:209), says that since the time Neolithikum, in Indonesia already know how to make clothes. From the tools Neolithikum relic can be known that the bark is a man dress in prehistoric times in Indonesia. The instrument used is the bark bat made from stone, as found in the collections of the Central Museum in Jakarta. In addition to clothing from bark, also known clothing material using animal skin that is generally used by men as a dress or outfit for the ceremony for the war. Since prehistoric ancestor of the Indonesian people also are familiar with weaving techniques. This is reinforced by the discovery of prehistoric pottery in which there is a decoration made of coarse woven fabric.
Dizaman prosperity was visible from the Srivijaya empire that produces a variety of songket, which at that time estimated songket sparkling color to royal officials in particular to give the king in embroidered made from gold. As a kingdom rich in gold and other metals from other, partly gold-gold is sent into the land of Siam (Thailand) to be the golden thread which is then sent back kekerajaan Srivijaya, by the crafters gold threads are woven with the threads of colored silk in those days imported from Siam (Thailand), India and China (China). International trade brought great influence in terms of processing songket especially in combining materials to be used as songket. Songket cloth for the King and kelurganya would require more material and workmanship, gold-coated silk thread became a prominent ingredient in pembuatanya, resulting in a sparkling songket, which shows a greatness and wealth that is not infinite.
International trade relations that led to the kingdom of Srivijaya empire that is open to outside influences, the existence of trade relations with neighboring countries indirectly affect local kebdayaan. As a result of an exchange of goods in trade has affected the pattern or motif generated songket Palembang area. Many art influences brought by the traders, which of them come from the Middle East and China (Chinese) influence the design motif in Palembang songket. One is the Islamic religion brought by traders from the Middle East, although in Islamic art are not allowed to create living creatures, but within the design songket seemed made of certain animal animal. Like for example many species of birds, reptiles and dragons. Mangosteen flower motif in the design songket also present in the Prambanan reliefs from the ninth and tenth centuries, experts estimate that there are similarities with the motifs that exist in Palembang songket design and this is evidence from the time of Hindu heritage in Indonesia contained in fabric design Palembang songket to the present.
After the weakening of the kingdoms in the archipelago, especially in Palembang and the arrival of Dutch colonialism, there have been changes in the structure of public life until just before World War II, the existence of songket had suffered a setback because of the difficulty of the necessary raw materials. However, the presence songket which is a relic of Indonesian history are preserved mainly because they still have a place in public life. Songket persistence of this, besides having a beautiful shape also has historical values that long in the history of this nation, the greatness of the kingdom of Srivijaya not be separated from the presence of songket. The existence of this songket has helped raise the kingdom of Srivijaya through an international trade.
Dutch departure from the land of the archipelago and the arrival of the Japanese occupation and during the Revolution until 1950, continues to deliver songket craft at the point of worrying because of the difficulties in getting raw materials and marketing products such songket. In the Japanese colonial period, Indonesia experienced extortion so that raw materials used to make songket very difficult to obtain. By the year 1950 and thereafter, the craft has begun songket ketch sought re-scale in a way to remove the threads of gold and silver threads woven songket the old (which is not used anymore) because the fabric had rotted silk as the basis for a woven fabric songket new, this situation lasted until 1966. It was not until around the year 1966 (the end), handicraft business much done songket started again by the crafters songket like old times with the number of threads of silk imports come from overseas, like China and Taiwan via traders from Singapore and yarn gold-thread from India, France, Japan and Germany. Palembang songket has undergone many ups and downs in his efforts to maintain cultural heritage of the past. But still survive until today. The existence of this songket, is one huge national asset and should be maintained at all existence. Songket has become the hallmark of the city of Palembang and is part of the culture of Indonesia. The Indonesian nation is rich in heritage and culture in the form of fabric or the other.
Kilkenny has a long history, starting from the Srivijaya kingdom until the glory of the Sultanate of Palembang Darussalam. Sriwijaya kingdom in its heyday around the 7th century AD became the forerunners of the city lies on the banks of Musi river this. A lot of priceless relics from the famous royal, one of which is cultural Wastra (cloth), a beautiful, songket. The existence of songket showed a high level of culture, because the fabric is stored a variety of things such as materials used, workmanship manner, the meaning contained in it as well as how to use and levels of people who wear them.
The existence of Palembang songket is one of the Srivijaya royal heritage evidence capable penguasai trade in the Straits of Malacca in his day. Historians say that the kingdom of Srivijaya around XI century after the collapse of the Malay kingdom holds the hegemony of the sea trade with foreign countries, among countries that have trade relations with the kingdom of Srivijaya is Indian, Chinese, Arabic etc.. The existence of this trade hegemony shows a greatness of the maritime kingdom in the archipelago at the time. Geographical situation in the traffic between China and India trade Goliath make a royal kingdom of Srivijaya maritime and international trade.
Sparkling gold color and luster that glows in this fabric, provides its own value and shows a greatness of the people who make songket. If we see a series of yarn and woven neatly arranged through symmetrical patterns, showed that the fabric was made with the people skills who understand the various ways to create quality fabric, that is able to decorate cloth with various designs. This capability is not everyone can do it, the skill and accuracy are absolutely necessary to make a songket. This knowledge is usually obtained by heredity from generation to generation.
According to some historians, as quoted by the Supreme S from Bandung ITT Research Team in his book entitled "Knowledge Printed Textiles" (1977:209), says that since the time Neolithikum, in Indonesia already know how to make clothes. From the tools Neolithikum relic can be known that the bark is a man dress in prehistoric times in Indonesia. The instrument used is the bark bat made from stone, as found in the collections of the Central Museum in Jakarta. In addition to clothing from bark, also known clothing material using animal skin that is generally used by men as a dress or outfit for the ceremony for the war. Since prehistoric ancestor of the Indonesian people also are familiar with weaving techniques. This is reinforced by the discovery of prehistoric pottery in which there is a decoration made of coarse woven fabric.
Dizaman prosperity was visible from the Srivijaya empire that produces a variety of songket, which at that time estimated songket sparkling color to royal officials in particular to give the king in embroidered made from gold. As a kingdom rich in gold and other metals from other, partly gold-gold is sent into the land of Siam (Thailand) to be the golden thread which is then sent back kekerajaan Srivijaya, by the crafters gold threads are woven with the threads of colored silk in those days imported from Siam (Thailand), India and China (China). International trade brought great influence in terms of processing songket especially in combining materials to be used as songket. Songket cloth for the King and kelurganya would require more material and workmanship, gold-coated silk thread became a prominent ingredient in pembuatanya, resulting in a sparkling songket, which shows a greatness and wealth that is not infinite.
International trade relations that led to the kingdom of Srivijaya empire that is open to outside influences, the existence of trade relations with neighboring countries indirectly affect local kebdayaan. As a result of an exchange of goods in trade has affected the pattern or motif generated songket Palembang area. Many art influences brought by the traders, which of them come from the Middle East and China (Chinese) influence the design motif in Palembang songket. One is the Islamic religion brought by traders from the Middle East, although in Islamic art are not allowed to create living creatures, but within the design songket seemed made of certain animal animal. Like for example many species of birds, reptiles and dragons. Mangosteen flower motif in the design songket also present in the Prambanan reliefs from the ninth and tenth centuries, experts estimate that there are similarities with the motifs that exist in Palembang songket design and this is evidence from the time of Hindu heritage in Indonesia contained in fabric design Palembang songket to the present.
After the weakening of the kingdoms in the archipelago, especially in Palembang and the arrival of Dutch colonialism, there have been changes in the structure of public life until just before World War II, the existence of songket had suffered a setback because of the difficulty of the necessary raw materials. However, the presence songket which is a relic of Indonesian history are preserved mainly because they still have a place in public life. Songket persistence of this, besides having a beautiful shape also has historical values that long in the history of this nation, the greatness of the kingdom of Srivijaya not be separated from the presence of songket. The existence of this songket has helped raise the kingdom of Srivijaya through an international trade.
Dutch departure from the land of the archipelago and the arrival of the Japanese occupation and during the Revolution until 1950, continues to deliver songket craft at the point of worrying because of the difficulties in getting raw materials and marketing products such songket. In the Japanese colonial period, Indonesia experienced extortion so that raw materials used to make songket very difficult to obtain. By the year 1950 and thereafter, the craft has begun songket ketch sought re-scale in a way to remove the threads of gold and silver threads woven songket the old (which is not used anymore) because the fabric had rotted silk as the basis for a woven fabric songket new, this situation lasted until 1966. It was not until around the year 1966 (the end), handicraft business much done songket started again by the crafters songket like old times with the number of threads of silk imports come from overseas, like China and Taiwan via traders from Singapore and yarn gold-thread from India, France, Japan and Germany. Palembang songket has undergone many ups and downs in his efforts to maintain cultural heritage of the past. But still survive until today. The existence of this songket, is one huge national asset and should be maintained at all existence. Songket has become the hallmark of the city of Palembang and is part of the culture of Indonesia. The Indonesian nation is rich in heritage and culture in the form of fabric or the other.
2. The
types of Motif Kain Songket Palembang
Use songket is generally used as a custom
clothing Palembang people to attend the wedding ceremony, ceremonial shaving
baby's hair and as a dancer clothing Gending Sriwijaya (welcome dance).
According to ITT Team Djamarin.dkk from Bandung (1977:217-218) meyebutkan about
the kinds of motives Palembang songket, including:
a. Songket Lepus
Lepus means covering, so understanding
is songket songket Lepus that have nearly menututpi golden thread throughout
the fabric. Gold with high quality yarn imported from China. Sometimes threads
of gold was taken from songket very old (hundreds of years) because the fabric
becomes brittle, gold thread embroidered fabric back to new. Quality songket
Lepus species is of the highest quality and most expensive price. In accordance
with a picture of his motive, then even this Lepus songket various names, among
others songket Lepus latitude (pictorial star), songket grapes Lepus, Lepus
songket chain, songket Lepus threaded, and others.
b. Songket Tawur
In the design of the fabric which tawur
songket on motive does not cover the entire surface of the fabric but in groups
and spread lies (studded / tawur). As forming weft motif is not inserted from
the side kepinggir weaving fabric as in the case songket usual, but only in
groups only. As with songket Lepus, songket tawur also vary among other names
songket tawur latitude, songket tawur look mangosteen, songket tawur silver
trays, and others.
c. Songket Tretes Mender
In
songket this species is not found a picture in the middle of the fabric motif
(polosan). Motifs contained in songket
Tretes mender there on both ends of the base and at the edges of the cloth.
d. Bungo songket Pacik
In songket this type, most of his motives made
of gold thread that was replaced with white cotton thread, so that the gold
thread woven not much else and only used as a distraction only.
e. Songket Combination
In songket this type is a combination
of the types of songket above, for example songket Bungo songket tawur China is
combined with songket Bungo Bungo songket pacik while diamond is a combination
of songket Tretes mender with songket Bungo pacik.
f. Songket Limar
Songket is not formed by additional
threads as well as on-songket songket other. Development of flower-motif
derived from the threads of the feed or the dyed warp yarn on the parts tetentu
before weaving. Usually combined with songket Limar developed with gold thread
songket tawur until called songket Limar tawur. Kinds of songket Limar jando
include ornate, jando bride and flower boyfriend. To strengthen the basic
fabric weaving yarn songket in gold or silver thread, it is often used to
lungsinya cotton fiber and silk for their feed.
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